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Advertising cosmetics: what you may promise – and what you may not

Reviewed by Dr. Daniel Wallerstorfer, molecular biologist and founder of Novogenia · Updated: 13 October 2026 · Reading time: 11 min

In short

Advertising for cosmetics must not imply characteristics or functions that the product does not have – on the label, in the shop and in any advertising (Art. 20(1) Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009). Every claim must meet six common criteria: legal compliance, truthfulness, evidential support, honesty, fairness and informed decision-making (Regulation (EU) No 655/2013). Unlike for food supplements, there is no list of authorized wordings – what counts is the evidence and how the average consumer understands the claim. Statements about curing, relieving or preventing disease are off-limits. Switzerland has adopted the six criteria and also explicitly bans references to anti-inflammatory effects.

Two words before the European Court of Justice

In 1999 and 2000, Austrian authorities found two managing directors guilty of an administrative offense. The reason: a liquid soap and a hair bath carried the words “dermatologically tested”. Austria’s food law at the time banned, among other things, references to expert opinions for cosmetic products. The Austrian Supreme Administrative Court referred the case to the European Court of Justice.

The judgment of October 24, 2002 (Case C-99/01, Linhart and Biffl) remains a compass for cosmetics advertising today. The Court took the reasonably well-informed, observant and circumspect average consumer as its yardstick. For that consumer, “dermatologically tested” means: the product was tested for its effects on the skin, the result was favorable, and it is well tolerated or at least not harmful (para. 32). The claim was therefore not misleading, and Austria could not ban it across the board (paras. 35 and 39).

The lesson cuts both ways: a claim is read the way an average consumer understands it – and exactly that must be true. “Dermatologically tested” requires such a test with a favorable result.

The basic rule: imply nothing that is not there

Article 20(1) of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 is short: in the labeling, making available on the market and advertising of cosmetic products, text, names, trademarks, pictures and other signs must not be used to imply that the products have characteristics or functions which they do not have.

How to check this is set out in Regulation (EU) No 655/2013. It applies to all claims, explicit or implicit, in any medium and for any target audience (Art. 1) – so to the label, website, social media post and studio flyer alike. The responsible person ensures that claims meet the criteria and are consistent with the evidence in the product information file (Art. 2).

One difference from food supplements is worth knowing: for cosmetics, there is no list of authorized wordings. The common criteria are explicitly not aimed at defining the wording of claims (recital 7). So think of the rules as a pair of scales: the claim goes in one pan, the evidence in the other. The claim must never weigh more.

The six common criteria

CriterionWhat it requiresExample
1. Legal complianceNo claim that a product has been authorized or approved by an authority. No benefit that is mere compliance with minimum legal requirements.“Complies with the EU Cosmetics Regulation” – every product must.
2. TruthfulnessIngredients mentioned are deliberately present. The properties of an ingredient are not attributed to the product if it does not have them. Opinions are not presented as verified claims.“48-hour hydration” only if the evidence supports 48 hours.
3. Evidential supportAdequate and verifiable evidence reflecting the state of the art; studies are relevant to the product and benefit and methodologically sound. Clear exaggerations that nobody takes literally need no evidence.Results from lab or computer models must not suggest an effect in humans.
4. HonestyThe presentation of performance does not go beyond the evidence. No uniqueness if similar products can do the same. Conditions for the effect are stated.No electronically manipulated before-and-after images that misrepresent performance.
5. FairnessStay objective; do not denigrate competitors or legally used ingredients; no confusion with competitors’ products.“Paraben-free” as a quality promise denigrates a whole group of permitted substances.
6. Informed decision-makingClear and understandable for the average consumer, with the information needed for an informed choice, suited to the target audience.Technical language can be appropriate for professionals – consumers need plain words.

The criteria are set out in the Annex to Regulation (EU) No 655/2013. The examples come from the guidance of the working group on cosmetic products (Technical document on cosmetic claims). It is not legally binding, but it shows how authorities read the criteria.

The borderline with medicinal products

A cosmetic product is intended to clean the skin, hair, nails or lips, perfume them, change their appearance, protect them, keep them in good condition or correct body odors (Art. 2(1)(a)). Healing is not on that list.

If advertising drifts toward disease, a cream can legally turn into a medicinal product. Medicinal products are substances presented as having properties for treating or preventing disease in human beings – or substances used to restore, correct or modify physiological functions by exerting a pharmacological, immunological or metabolic action (Art. 1(2) Directive 2001/83/EC). Where a product may fall under both definitions, medicines law applies in cases of doubt (Art. 2(2)).

National rules come on top:

For your copy, this means: stay with appearance, skin feel and care. As soon as your texts talk about curing, relieving or preventing, about inflammation or about repairing DNA, you leave the field of cosmetics.

Do’s and don’ts: wording compared

The examples are general. Every claim needs evidence for your specific product.

DoBetter notWhy
“Moisturizes and makes skin look smoother.” (if substantiated)“Anti-aging serum: stops skin aging.”The presentation of performance must not go beyond the evidence (criterion 4(1)).
“Care for sensitive skin.”“Has an anti-inflammatory effect.”Disease reference, borderline with medicinal products (Art. 1(2) Directive 2001/83/EC); explicitly banned in Switzerland (Art. 47(3) LGV)
“Dermatologically tested” with a test under dermatological supervision and a favorable result“Dermatologically tested” based on a customer surveyConsumer expectation (CJEU, C-99/01); self-perception is not enough according to the guidance
“Free from animal-derived ingredients – for vegan customers.” (if true)“Paraben-free – and therefore better tolerated.”Denigrates legally used ingredients (criterion 5(1))
“Hypoallergenic” only with robust data showing a very low allergenic potential“Free from allergenic substances”A complete absence of allergy risk cannot be guaranteed (guidance, Annexes III and IV).
“The selection and dosage of the active ingredients follow your genetic analysis.”“Repairs your genes.” / “Corrects gene defects.”Suggests a physiological action (Art. 1(2)(b) Directive 2001/83/EC) and cannot be substantiated (criterion 3(1)).

Genes in advertising: tell honestly what is personalized

Personalized cosmetics have a strong story – which is exactly why it pays to tell it precisely. At Novogenia, the genetic result changes the selection and the dosage of the active ingredients. You may say so, because it describes how the product is made. Four rules help you:

Advertising the genetic analysis itself is subject to its own rules – more in Advertising genetic tests. What research shows about skin and genes is summarized in Skin and genes.

Unfair competition law and new rules for environmental claims

Unfair competition law applies alongside cosmetics law. In Germany, a commercial practice is misleading if it contains untrue information or other information likely to deceive – for example about the results to be expected from use or about the results of tests (Section 5(2) No. 1 UWG). In Austria, Section 2 UWG prohibits misleading commercial practices.

Since September 27, 2026, Member States have also applied Directive (EU) 2024/825 (Art. 4(1)). It adds to the practices that Directive 2005/29/EC considers unfair in all circumstances, among others:

Switzerland: the same criteria, an explicit ban on health claims

Switzerland has adopted the six criteria almost word for word: claims for cosmetic products must comply with the criteria in Annex 6 of the VKos (Art. 10(2) VKos). The ban on misleading claims and the rule on “no animal testing” claims also mirror the EU (Art. 10(1) and (3) VKos). Two rules with a profile of their own sit above them:

The difference from the EU lies less in the outcome than in the clarity: Switzerland spells it out in black and white. For personalized skincare that addresses a genetic tendency toward inflammation, this means: describe the care, for example for sensitive skin – never an anti-inflammatory effect. If you advertise the genetic analysis itself in Switzerland, additional rules apply, see Advertising genetic tests.

Checklist before every publication

Frequently asked questions

May I use “anti-aging” for a cream?
A cosmetic product may change the appearance of the skin and keep it in good condition (Art. 2(1)(a) Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009). Every statement about its effect must, however, be backed by evidence and must not go beyond that evidence (Annex, criteria 3 and 4 of Regulation (EU) No 655/2013). A promise to stop or reverse aging cannot be kept on that basis. Instead, describe specifically what the skincare does and what you can prove.
May I advertise “dermatologically tested”?
Yes, if it is true. The European Court of Justice held that an average consumer understands it to mean that the product was tested for its effects on the skin with a favorable result (Case C-99/01, para. 32). According to the guidance of the EU working group, the claim implies that the product was tested on humans under the supervision of a dermatologist; studies of consumers’ self-perception are not appropriate to support it.
May I cite studies on an active ingredient?
As evidence for your product only if they are relevant to the product and to the benefit claimed (Annex, criterion 3(3) of Regulation (EU) No 655/2013). If you extrapolate the properties of an ingredient to the finished product, you need evidence for that, such as an effective concentration in the product (criterion 3(6)). Results from lab or computer models must not suggest an effect in humans.
May I say that the skincare is matched to the customer’s genes?
Yes, if it is true and you describe what is personalized – at Novogenia, for example, the selection and dosage of the active ingredients. Avoid statements that suggest an effect on the genes, a correction of gene defects or disease risks. Recommendations derived from genetic analyses are logical conclusions, not scientifically proven.
Who is responsible for advertising in my studio or shop?
You are responsible for your own advertising – under cosmetics law (Art. 20(1) Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009) and under unfair competition law (Section 5 UWG in Germany, Section 2 UWG in Austria). The responsible person ensures that claims are consistent with the evidence in the product information file (Art. 2 Regulation (EU) No 655/2013). So agree new claims with it beforehand.

Related: Labeling cosmetics: mandatory information · Advertising genetic tests · Advertising longevity

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