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Getting cosmetics manufactured: a guide to contract manufacturing, white label and personalized skincare
Your own skincare line does not require your own lab or your own production. There are three routes: you resell the personalized BeautyMe skincare, you launch a proven base formulation as white label under your brand, or you develop your own formula – which takes 3 to 5 months at Novogenia. All routes lead to the same three products: day serum, night serum and body lotion, from small batches and made in Austria. Personalization works through genes: the result of a genetic analysis changes which ingredients go into the formula and at what dosage. In the EU, the Cosmetics Regulation applies: every product needs a responsible person, a safety assessment, a product information file and a notification before it goes on the market. This guide walks you through every step.
Half genes, half everyday life: what twins reveal about skin
Why do some people look younger than they are – and others older? Researchers explored this question with a clever method. They studied the faces of 102 pairs of female twins from Denmark aged 59 to 81, plus 162 women from the UK aged 45 to 75. Twins are a stroke of luck for questions like this: because they share all or part of their genes, researchers can estimate how much comes down to genes and how much to life.
The result: skin wrinkles, gray hair and lip height were each independently linked to how old a woman looked. And for wrinkles, pigmented age spots and visible sun damage, genes and environment played roughly equal roles (Gunn et al., PLoS One 2009).
Think of skin as a garden. Everyone brings their own soil – their genes. How it is watered and fed is up to everyday life: sun, lifestyle and skincare. The logical conclusion: if you know your soil, you can care for it more precisely. That is exactly the idea behind personalized cosmetics.
I am a molecular biologist and the founder of Novogenia. In our building in Eugendorf near Salzburg, Austria, a genetic lab, a supplement factory and a cosmetics factory sit under one roof. That is how a saliva sample becomes a finished, personalized skincare product without ever leaving the company or the EU. With this guide, I want to show you how to turn this into your own skincare line – whether you are a brand, a beauty studio, a spa, a pharmacy or a sales partner.
Three routes to your own skincare line
The first question is not “Which serum?” but: how much of it should really be yours? Time, effort and independence all depend on the answer. At Novogenia, you have three routes:
| Route | What you get | Fits |
|---|---|---|
| Resell BeautyMe | Novogenia’s personalized skincare, formulated for your client after the genetic analysis. No lab, no production, no startup costs. | Beauty studios, spas, hotels and pharmacies looking for a ready-made offer |
| White label | A proven base formulation, filled under your brand – with your logo, your label and your packaging. Novogenia does not appear as a brand. Personalized on request. | Studios, retailers and brands that want their own line quickly |
| Your own formula | An individual formula built from your idea or your active-ingredient wishes, implemented correctly in terms of galenics and regulation. Development takes 3 to 5 months. | Brands with their own concept that want to stand out through the product itself |
All three routes lead to the same three products: day serum, night serum and body lotion. And they are not mutually exclusive. Many brands start quickly with white label and develop their own signature formula as a flagship in parallel. How to find the right route is covered in White label, private label or your own formula?; the process from idea to launch is described in How to get cosmetics manufactured.
There is a fourth way in for companies that already hold genetic data, such as genetic testing providers. Where the raw data are usable, we interpret them directly and move straight to the formula. You keep the data and the customer relationship. More on the Personalized cosmetics from genetic data page.
Personalized cosmetics: what genes change
At Novogenia, personalized means: the result of the genetic analysis changes two things – which ingredients go into the formula and at what dosage. The analysis reads genes on skincare topics that matter for the skin:
- Collagen: how fast the body breaks down collagen (MMP1) and how it builds it.
- UV protection: the skin’s natural UV protection (MC1R). Skincare does not replace sun protection.
- Hydration: how well the skin holds on to moisture.
- Oxidative stress: how well the body’s own defense against free radicals works (SOD2, GPX1, NQO1), plus coenzyme Q10 and selenium.
- Inflammation tendency: how strongly the body tends toward inflammatory reactions (TNF-α, IL6).
The starting point is a saliva sample, which we analyze in our own lab in Austria – or genetic data that a partner already holds. The interpretation follows a rule set built on more than 30 genetic tests. Every gene we include is backed by at least three independent studies. The formula we derive from it is a logical conclusion from the genetic profile – not a promise of cure. Genes are one factor among many.
How a genetic profile becomes a formula is explained in Personalized cosmetics. What research knows about individual topics is shown in the gene stories on collagen breakdown, oxidative stress and skin hydration, and in the chapter Skin and genes.
Quality and law: what a serum needs before launch
A good formula alone does not put a serum on the shelf. In the EU, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 defines what a cosmetic product is and what it needs before it can be sold. According to Article 2, cosmetics are meant to clean, perfume, change the appearance of, protect or keep in good condition the skin, hair or teeth, or to correct body odors. Healing is not on that list. The key obligations follow from this:
- Responsible person (Art. 4): a product may only be placed on the market if a responsible person established in the EU has been designated. At Novogenia, we take on this role.
- Safety assessment (Art. 10): before launch, a qualified expert assesses safety; the result is recorded in the safety report.
- Product information file (Art. 11): it brings together the description, the safety report and the manufacturing method, among other things, and is kept for ten years after the last batch.
- Notification (Art. 13): before launch, the product is notified electronically through the European Commission’s Cosmetic Products Notification Portal (CPNP).
- Good manufacturing practice (Art. 8): compliance is presumed when manufacturing follows the harmonized standard – that is ISO 22716. Our cosmetics production is certified to it by Quality Austria.
- Product claims (Art. 20): a product must not imply characteristics it does not have. Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 sets six common criteria for this, from truthfulness to evidential support.
In Switzerland, the EU regulation does not apply; the rules are set by the Ordinance of the Federal Department of Home Affairs on cosmetic products (VKos). There, too, every cosmetic product needs a product information file with a safety report prepared by a qualified expert. Good manufacturing practice likewise corresponds to ISO 22716; Swiss law does not require certification for it (FSVO). The EU notification via the CPNP concerns the EU market; for Switzerland, the obligations of the VKos apply.
You will find the details in Chapter 3: Quality to ISO 22716, Responsible person, safety assessment, notification, Labeling and Advertising cosmetics.
Who this guide is written for
This guide is for businesses that want to sell cosmetics under their own name or as part of their offer:
- Cosmetics brands and founders: you want your own skincare line without building a factory. Start with How to get cosmetics manufactured.
- Beauty studios: day serum, night serum and body lotion under your studio brand, or BeautyMe for resale (Offer for beauty studios).
- Spas and wellness hotels: the saliva sample takes only a few minutes; the skincare is available as a takeaway or by subscription after the stay (Spa & wellness, Wellness hotels).
- Pharmacies and practices: a high-quality skincare line that is easy to explain in a consultation.
- Sales partners and online retailers: a skincare line with a real story, under your own brand or as a finished product.
- Data partners: companies with their own genetic data that want to offer their customers a matching follow-up product.
If you want to offer nutrients from the inside alongside skincare from the outside, you get both from one source. How they fit together is shown in Combining cosmetics and supplements.
All chapters at a glance
All 12 articles are also listed by chapter at the end of this page.
Frequently asked questions
What is cosmetics contract manufacturing?
Which cosmetic products does Novogenia make?
How long does it take to launch my own skincare line?
Is there a minimum order quantity?
Who is responsible for the safety of my cosmetics?
Related: BeautyMe: personalized skincare · Contract manufacturer for personalized cosmetics · Supplement contract manufacturing guide
Planning your own cosmetics line?
Tell us about your brand, studio or practice – we will show you which route fits.
Request a project →Discover BeautyMeNote: This guide is general information for businesses and professionals and does not replace legal advice. BeautyMe products are cosmetic products; statements in this guide are not promises of cure. The genetic traits determined in a genetic analysis are well documented (each gene included is backed by at least three independent studies); recommendations for skincare and formulation derived from them are logical conclusions, not scientifically proven. Regulations can change; errors and changes excepted.
